The Gendarmenmarkt, a historic square in the centre of Berlin, has reopened after two years of renovations. However, the redesign has sparked disagreement across the city, with tourists and residents alike voicing frustration over the loss of shade and greenery. The once-beloved location is now being called a “stone desert” by many, as the trees that once lined the square and provided a much-needed shade from the sun have been removed. Online critiques voice concern that the square has lost its inviting charm, becoming more of a monument than a functional public space. So, has the renovation influenced the livability of the Gendarmenmarkt?
Built in the 17th century, the Gendarmenmarkt is home to the German Cathedral, the French Cathedral, and the Konzerthaus, together forming one of Berlin’s most striking architectural ensembles. The square’s rich and eventful history is marked in its very structure. Each era has left behind its architectural imprint, reflecting the city’s evolving cultural and political landscape. Urban researcher Felix Bentlin of TU Berlin notes that Gendarmenmarkt has long served as a model of city planning. “It was part of a vision for urban expansion,” he says. Today, it draws over a million tourists each year.
October 2022 marked the start of renovations at the Gendarmenmarkt, one of Berlin’s most iconic squares. Overseen by Grün Berlin and costing €22 million, the two-year project aimed to restore the square’s historic character, drawing on design elements reminiscent of its GDR-era layout. Now complete, the redesigned square features a more open, uniform stone surface and updated infrastructure. According to Grün Berlin, the project was intended to improve accessibility, support cultural events, and preserve the site’s architectural heritage. Still, as urban design researcher Felix Bentlin notes, “What’s important is what we don’t see,” referring to the underfloor infrastructure that supports long-term climate adaptation. These upgrades, he adds, are “part of adapting the space for the future.”
The renovation updates were aimed at making the square more resilient to climate change and improving urban life over time. However, for many visitors, the immediate effects of these changes raise questions about the square’s livability. Christina and Henry, tourists from the United States, noted, “It’s so hot with all the concrete,” adding, “It’s sad not to see more green in a city like Berlin.”
Dr. Bentlin acknowledges the immediate discomfort visitors face but encourages a broader view. He suggests critics consider the square’s “evolving role over centuries,” emphasizing the “importance of layered history, public use, and the modern infrastructure” needed to support events that bring people together. It is about balancing functionality, aesthetics, and preparing the space for future use across all seasons. “It’s not just a park; it’s a square,” he says. He points out that maintaining this balance is essential for the square’s long-term adaptability, ensuring it serves both the city’s residents and the millions of tourists who visit each year. Emphasizing the lack of “Berliners who come here,” referring to the Gendarmenmarkt
In contradiction, Henry and Oliver, two Berlin-based students enjoying a study break on the Gendarmenmarkt, voiced a different perspective. Not an unusual sight, as several universities are located around the square. While tourists may appreciate the architectural clarity and open layout, locals like Henry and Oliver are more directly impacted by the lack of greenery.
“It’s quite warm, right?” Henry noted, gesturing at the sun-soaked pavement. “All the heat just reflects from the concrete.” Oliver agreed, adding, “It’s only going to be worse in July or August.” Both students highlighted how even nearby Friedrichstraße, where they attend classes, lacks shade entirely. “There are no trees at all,” Henry said, calling the redesign a “negative of Gendarmenmarkt.” Their comments reflect a broader concern among locals about how the space functions day-to-day. “Why didn’t they just put more trees here?” Oliver asked. “It looks better, it’s nicer.”
The Gendarmenmarkt renovation represents a cultural balancing act between preserving the square’s historical charm and adapting it for modern urban needs. Dr. Bentlin highlights that the project is aimed at future-proofing the space, ensuring it remains functional and accessible for generations to come. Key updates, including modern infrastructure for events and climate resilience, aim to improve the square’s long-term adaptability. Yet, this transformation hasn’t been without its challenges.
Locals, like students from nearby universities, offer a different perspective. While tourists may appreciate the open, clean layout, the absence of shade and greenery makes the square feel less inviting for those who use it daily. “All the heat just reflects from the concrete,” Henry remarked, pointing to the sun-baked stone beneath their feet. For many Berliners, the square’s new look feels disconnected from the city’s communal culture, where public spaces often serve as places for relaxation and social interaction.
Still, the renovation of the Gendarmenmarkt leaves a lingering question: in adapting a historic square for the future, has something essential been overlooked? While the space is now more resilient and event-ready, its everyday functionality feels less certain. The balance between preserving architectural heritage and creating a place where people want to linger remains delicate. In the end, it’s not only about what’s been restored, but what’s no longer there to invite people to stay.
